Category Archives: Amarnath Yatra

Travelogue – Starting for Amarnath Yatra from Pahalgam

Amarnath Yatra
Date: June 21, 2006 -> Tata Sumo is the vehicle of choice for going from Pahalgam to Chandanwari. The cost is Rs600 for the entire vehicle one way, or one could take a seat on a per seat basis (negotiable). For Amarnath Yatra, the vehicles line up at the security checkpoint at Laripora village (2km from Pahalgam towards Chandanwari) where they are allowed to go ahead at a certain time early in the morning (between 6:00 AM and 7:00 AM). (Check for the latest arrangements on this account)

Local commuter mini-bus service is also available, but is generally used only by the locals.
The vehicles are reserved in advance from Pahalgam Taxi Stand. There are more than a hundred of such Sumo Taxis available, and most are generally busy during the yatra period, so booking in advance is highly recommended. The taxis make five to six trips to Chandanwari everyday during the Yatra period.

The road from Pahalgam to Chandanwari has been notoriously bad for all these years – in fact there hardly has been any road. But in March 2006 the entire stretch has been laid well with good quality macadamized road, though its still one lane. But most of the drivers are very well versed with each and every curve and turn on the 12 odd km stretch. The steep curves and the high speeds can make the ride very exciting, but spend your time looking outside at the meandering river Lidder flowing below with gushing waters and steep drops. And don’t miss the view of the mouth of the lidder valley as you leave it behind when you take the height; and the many water falls you see on the way.
road-to-chandanwari Only in five miles you will see on your right a widening of the valley as the Lidder calms down over a flat land. Localites fondly remember the location for the “shooting” of the famous hindi movie Betaab. This was the place where the farmhouse that was the centerpiece of the movie, was set up. As you drive up, you will see directions to Shiv Temple Cave, at Shivmarg. This is not a well known temple, apparently having come there in past few years. Try to stop by and take a look if you can; but the taxi Sumos would not.
The taxi stand is one and a half km short of Chandanwari snow bridge. Expect to be encountered by a horde of “ghorewalas”. Now if you have not already arranged for a pony (or a horse, however you would like to call the animal), this is your “moment of truth”! Getting the right pony and the right pony-wallah is crucial to a good, well organized and safe yatra experience.
bettab-valley-chandanwari-pahalgam
There are three basic categories of ponies and pony-wallahs.
The first category are the ponies and ponywallahs that belong to Pahalgam and surrounding areas. These are experienced ponies and experienced guides who have traversed the yatra route multiple times – even the ponies understand the route.

The second broad category is the gujjars who jump into the fray to make some money during yatra days. Their ponies are actually “ponies” – smaller built and also not too familiar with the route peculiarities. They may come at a slightly lower rate, but the gujjars lack professionalism – and that, like in any other service profession, has its own value. Professionalism means that the guy keeps an eye on the rider all the time, it means when to hold the horse or the rider during a steep climb down, it means to be not only timely with lunch breaks, but to be able to guide and suggest as to how much time is good for a break, etc.

The third type is the ponies and their owners who come all the way from Katra (in Jammu) specifically for Amarnath Yatra. Of course, their knowledge of local terrain, language and experience is limited.

By one account there are just 1,200 ponies which actually belong to the Pahalgam area, out of a total of about 10,000 that may be active on the route on a yatra day.

The ponies themselves are a stretched lot: not very long ago, the ponies were awarded a day of rest after every two or three days of labor, which means a day off for rest after every trip to Amarnath. But not any more. They work continuously for ten days and even more before they are rewarded with a day of rest.

Amarnath Yatra 2009 Update

The annual Amarnath yatra commenced from the traditional Pahalgam route from today (06/26), while the pilgrimage has already been in progress via Baltal route on the Srinagar-Leh axis from June 16. The yatra via Pahalgam route earlier scheduled to begin from June 7 could not be started due to bad weather conditions and accumulation of heavy snow on several patches along the 32-km-long Chandanwari-holy cave stretch.

A batch of 1,415 pilgrims, who were camping at the Nunwan Base Camp, Pahalgam, was allowed to proceed for the pilgrimage this morning via the traditional Chandanwari route.

Meanwhile, the Amarnath Shrine board has once again appealed to the intending pilgrims registered for the Pahalgam route to keep adequate flexibility in their travel plans as only 2,000 registered pilgrims per day would be permitted in the initial phase to proceed on the yatra on a first-come, first-served basis on the traditional Pahalgam-Chandanwari-holy cave route in view of the track and weather conditions. No old or infirm person and children below 12 years will be permitted to undertake the yatra on the Sheshnag route in view of the difficult snow route.

Women pilgrims have been advised to avoid undertaking the yatra on this route, at least for the next seven days or so.

How to register for Amarnath Yatra 2009

As every year, the Jammu and Kashmir Bank has been authorised by the government to register the intending pilgrims. You can click here to register.
Around 110 branches of the bank spread over the country will facilitate the registration of the pilgrims.
Bookings up to 3,00,000 are being done at counters;  and up to 1,20,000 through Internet   – which is a preferred means. The bank is also providing the mobile banking facilities at the base camp that will remain open from June 6 to August 5. ATM facility will be available round the clock.
In Jammu, the bank has set up an extra counter at the Exhibition Ground for registration, which will remain open on week days from 3.p.m in the afternoon till 6.p.m. , and on Saturday from 1.p.m to 4.p.m. in the afternoon.

The registration will close on July 30.

Additionally, the SASB has earmarked a daily allocation of 200 Yatra registrations each to a recognized travel and tour operator, and a daily quota of 50 registrations each in favour of the hotel industry in both Jammu and Kashmir divisions.

Notice regarding Re-Registration of Yatris for Shri Amarnathji Yatra- 2009
 

 
Consequent upon the rescheduling of the Yatra 2009, which was to commence on 7th of June instead will now start on 15th June, and culminate on 5th August 2009. The rescheduling of the dates will definitely cause inconvenience to those who have already registered themselves for Darshan for the dates from 7th June to 14th June online or offline. The Yatris can approach the designated branches for certain recourse and help. The Branches in such case will accede to their request and act accordingly: –
For Manual Booking:
The already registered Yatri who will approach the branch for the change of date of the Darshan will be accommodated in other dates to his convenience subject to the availably of the quota in that particular Darshan date without any further charges, however the route of the Yatra will remain unchanged.
The modified date on the already issued Slip will be countersigned and seal affixed.
In case the already registered Yatri intends to change the Route the fresh slip will be issued to the Yatri on further charges.
The facility is to be offered to the Yatris who have the registration of 7th June to 14th June.
For Online Booking:
The already registered Yatri (online) will revisit the site opt for re-registration and punch the Registration No. of the slip he/she is already holding and the caller mail id which has been put in on the actual registration.
Then he/she will select the next available date of his/her convenience subject to the availability of the quota on that particular date, however the route of the Yatra will remain unchanged.
The system will generate the fresh Yatra slip without asking for any further charges.
The facility is restricted to the Yatri who have the registration of 7th June to 14th June in there already registration.

Booking can be scheduled or rescheduled here.
 

Preparations for main Amarnath Yatra in good shape

Read about final preparations for the Chhadi Mubarak, as well as more on the take of Mahant Deependra Giri on how and why yatra through Pahalgam route contitutes the only legitimate way of doing this holy pilgrimage.

Srinagar, July 14, KONS- The custodian of the holy mace of lord Shiva or ‘Charri Mubarak’, Mahant Deependra Giri today announced the programme for the commencement of the ‘religious’ yatra to the holy cave shrine of Amarnath in South Kashmir Himalayas.
Giri, who had earlier campaigned for restricting the yatra to a period of one month, said rituals connected with Chhari-Mubarak will begin with Bhoomi-pujan and Dhawajarohan ceremonies at Pahalgam on ‘Vyas-Purnima’ which falls on July 18, marking the commencement of the religious yatra.
It is note worthy that a record number of 4, 73,744 pilgrims have already visited the holy cave for darshan so far with 3313 leaving for the cave shrine from the base camps on Monday.
Giri said, after performing the ‘Chhari-Pujan’ at Dashnami Akhara in Srinagar on Nag-Panchami, which falls on August six, the holy mace would be taken in a procession to the cave shrine.
On way to the holy cave, special prayers would be offered at various temples, the Mahant said, adding, the holy mace will reach the cave shrine for ‘darshan’ on Shravan-Purnima falling on August 16 which marks the conclusion of the annual yatra.
Giri, who has also expressed disappointment over preference of the shortest Baltal route to the traditional Pahalgam track, said Mahadev Gir Dashnami Akhara trust has made all arrangements for Sadhus coming from across the country for annual pilgrimage.
All necessary arrangements for their comfortable stay and food have been made at the Akhara building in Srinagar, the head priest said.
Mahant Deependra Giri, resigned as member of the Shri Amarnath Shrine Board (SASB) following the differences over duration of yatra and the artificial ice lingam controversy in 2006.
The Mahant is of the opinion that the annual pilgrimage should be conducted during the month of “Shravan” only as per the age-old religious customs and traditions.
Even as he disassociated himself from the Board, he however, continued to do on his own “all that might be required to maintain the sanctity of the annual pilgrimage of Amarnath”.
Giri, has asserted that using the man-made Baltal route for the pilgrimage — which is significantly more convenient than the original one — goes against the Hindu scriptures.
 According to Giri, ancient scriptures hold the trek through Pahalgam as the only authentic route for the pilgrimage.
 He argues that the yatra is not sanctimonious if there is no penance.
 “There is no mention of Baltal in the scriptures, which means Pahalgam is the only authentic route for the pilgrimage. This is as per Hingish Sahita — the only authentic scripture which explains Amarnath pilgrimage at length and bears description of how to conduct this yatra. As far as Baltal goes, the route was thrown open by the Army,” Giri says.
 The contention of the SASB so far has been that “reaching the cave is of utmost importance, and the route has no bearing on the pilgrimage”.
 Meanwhile 1846 pilgrims were allowed from Nunwan base camp along the Pahalgam route and 1465 devotees left Baltal base camp on their way to the cave shrine on Monday morning.
Two women pilgrims including one from Delhi, died of cardiac arrest on way to the cave shrine, raising the number of deaths during the ongoing annual pilgrimage to 51, official sources said.